The journal

Field notes.

Short, specific, useful — written the way you'd tell a friend, not the way you'd write a brochure.

Guides

Practical field notes.

FN — 014

How to buy a Banarasi saree without getting played

→ FN — 013

The ghat nobody explained to you

→ FN — 012

What happens at 4:47am on the Ganga

→ FN — 011

Why Banaras smells the way it does

→ FN — 010

The men who still weave by hand

→ FN — 009

The five-minute rule for getting lost, safely

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Poems

In their own words.

Real poems about Banaras, sent to us by readers with their own connection to the city.

POEM

मेरा बनारस

→ POEM

ऐ बनारस मेरे बनारस

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See all poems Share your Banaras

Meet the team

Who writes these notes

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